3 Deserts, by Moonching Wu

1. 

My dream of visiting the Sahara came true in Erg Chebbi, Morocco. Our guide Daoud called himself a driver, yet without his guiding I would’ve never visited the nomadic Berber family. 

When we drove up the hard, rugged earth, an adorable girl with brown curls greeted us. In a smaller tent her mother prepared tea, bread, and their specialty: date syrup. Her younger sister, barely walking, peaked at us curiously from behind her mother’s dress.We sat on low benches in the big tent, covered by a carpet made from black camel hair. The wooden support which held up the huge tent resembled the yoke I’ve seen on oxen in Myanmar. We ate bread dipped in date syrup while sipping tea. 

Daoud tried to convince the 4 year old to share with her sister the chocolate bar that he brought them. They spoke in Berber but I knew exactly what went on. 

“Share this with your sister.” 

“La” she shook her head. 

“Give 1 piece to your sister, this is a big bar!” 

“La” more giggles. 

“If you share this with your sister I will bring you more.” 

“La,” she laughed, rolling on the carpet. 

Daoud gave up. They went outside and played with a ball, the only toy I saw. She yanked on his jalebi and blocked him masterfully; serious Champions League level moves! 

I watched them and speculated a nomad’s life. Their most valuable possessions are the sheep, and everything else must be carried along with their donkey whenever they decide to move. They live entirely outdoors. The beauty in their simplicity is hard to describe, but easily felt. 

2. 

My first desert experience was Anza Borrego, California. There, I observed that when I’m happy, my mother responded in kind. All those years I spent seeking her approval was in vain. Back then, I didn’t tell my mother much about myself or my life. I figured the less she knew, the less chance she’d find something to criticize. 

I drove from NYC to San Diego to continue grad school at the SoCal campus. I didn’t like living in that city much, so with every opportunity, I drove out exploring. I rented a simple house for the desert weekend. We spent most of the day hiking, dodging enormous cacti, admiring the martian landscape. The light and air felt purifying. 

We sat by a fire pit after dinner. As she looked into the distance, she said, “Very nice day.” Up to that moment, I think I’ve only heard her say that once in my entire life. Somewhat surprised, I rejoiced in her satisfaction. While I rehearsed a reply in my mind, suddenly a coyote’s long creepy howl pierced the silence. 

My mom bolted up in her chair. “I’m scared. Going inside!” I watched her retreat into the adobe style house. She definitely approved of this spotless and spacious house, and in her wordless way, showed me that she enjoyed spending time with me.

3.

As night descended, most tourists left for Siwa Oasis. Three Aussies and us two stayed in the Egyptian desert. Gathered around a bonfire, we put on layer after layer of clothing, eventually bundled up in sleeping bags to stargaze. When the Milky Way lit up, we gasped in awe.

“Your sleeping quarters ready,” the Amazigh host announced. My tent of carpets hanging on metal frames. Large gaps between carpets meant inside the tent is more or less the same temperature as outside: frigid.

I spread 2 sleeping bags in the dark, scarcely lit by my phone. Suddenly a gush of wind as a young man lifted a carpet and came in, I’ve brought you more sleeping bags. It’s extra cold so you get more, we give you 5 tonight. 

2 for the bottom and 3 on top, I silently made our bed, my fingers were frozen stiff so it was no easy task. While under the 3 top layers, I removed my puff jacket. Before I shed more clothing, I fell asleep. The next thing I became aware of was dawn, shining in between carpets.I shoved my feet, fat with layers of socks, into sandals and wobbled outside towards the rising sun. The staff were readying our breakfast on a low table in the sand. My sleep was so deep, despite the adventures from yesterday, I felt well rested. We all ate in silence, hair wild, skin dusted by sand, and hearts cracked wide open like the sheltering sky above us.